Day 21 Tring to Claygate

76km, 320m climb.

 Once more it was raining when we woke up!

The forecast implied that it would gradually get worse through the day, so we reluctantly left home comforts behind and got on the road soon after 9.00. 

It seemed strange having so little luggage, but even so the initial climb from Tring to Wiggington still seemed pretty steep! The rain gradually eased and we continued to be quite lucky with the weather, staying dry until we were nearly home. 

We have tried several different ways to cycle to or from Tring over the years and this one proved to be the best. We’ve always used the same route on pleasant, quiet lanes through the Chilterns until after the M40. This time we opted to go just east of Slough through Black Park and Langley Country Park - all off-road and excellent. 

Picnic lunch stop in Langley Country Park

We carried on through this improbably quiet countryside on the outskirts of Slough, now on NCN 61 which became very "rural" before a short stretch along the Slough Arm of the Grand Union Canal which was built in 1882 to carry bricks being used for the rapid expansion of London. We then passed through Langley itself on a purpose-built paved cycle path.

NCN 61 near Langley

Near Poyle the route was on the road, but not too busy, before taking a neat little track around junction 14 of the M25 - off road, but rather grotty (I certainly wouldn't have liked to be alone round here), then a cycle route over Stanwell Moor alongside the M25 - not a highlight of the trip, but only a kilometre or two! This brought us into Staines where we met up with our outbound route from three weeks ago.

River Thames at Staines

From here it was a quick run along the river to Walton, then back to Claygate just as it started to rain again.

It's been hard work, but we have cycled 1107km and climbed over 6000m, seen lots of interesting parts of the UK, enjoyed our socialising en route and had great fun. 

We are pretty exhausted though....

Day 20 Tring

It’s been lovely to stay in Tring. Not only have we been extremely well fed and slept in a comfortable bed, but we have enjoyed the company of Malin, Elsa and Linnea.

 Angus left early on Saturday morning for his own cycling adventure. A convoluted train journey to Rannoch Moor and an off-road plan for over 700km and over 10,000m of climbing around much of north west Scotland. Wild camping and home by next weekend. He has inherited the slightly over-ambitious cycling gene from his elderly parents and taken it to a whole new level! But that’s his story….

In the meantime we relaxed our aching legs, had fun with our granddaughters, dried out our wet tent and sorted out our gear. We have left most of it there as we are returning in the car next weekend.

Day 19 Whichford to Tring

 86km, 420m climb

Cotswold Camping Whichford

We awoke to rain on our unusual, natural campsite.

After packing up a wet tent and donning waterproofs we set off in a light drizzle which increased over the next hour or so.

The route was along pretty Cotswold lanes, generally passing more horses than cars.

Duns Tew

Watermill

The weather gradually improved and layers were shed. We were much too hot now!

We got a bit messed up with HS2 works and detours before finding the Waddesdon Greenway which took us easily to very busy Aylesbury, then canal towpath to Tring where we'll enjoy a rest day with our family before heading home.

Day 18 Wolverley to Whichford (near Shipton on Stour)

 92km, 510m climb

We're in the Cotswolds now, with pretty villages and lovely rolling scenery. Yes, it's still hilly!

It was raining when we woke up - the first time on this trip. Fortunately it clea8up before we left and it was dry all the time we were cycling. Just as we arrived at the campsite the heavens opened again and we hastily put the tent up and threw everything inside!

We followed the canal to Kidderminster and beyond, then a railway cycle route before some hilly little lanes to Droitwich. Here we left the Mercian Way (NCN 45) to head in a  easterly direction and went through lovely, but so busy with traffic, Bidford on Avon and are now in another unusual eco type campsite on a hill fort with some strange moats around it.

Tomorrow we should get to Tring.

Day 17 Ebury Hill to Wolverley (just north of Kidderminster)

 69km, 750 climb

The sun was shining again and our hilly route took us along the flanks of the Wrekin and steeply down into the Ironbridge Gorge. We crossed the Severn by the bridge itself and followed it downstream on a rough gravel former railway line. 

We were near to the source of the Severn and initially crossed into Wales over the estuary. This is somewhere in the middle of its meanders around England and Wales.

We had another big climb away from the river - even more so when the GPS took us up a very rough track which proved to be a cul de sac!

Lots of very quiet undulating lanes followed and we were glad to get the tent up and cook dinner.

It looks as if the lovely weather we've been enjoying will change in the next couple of days. We might be needing those waterproofs!

Day 16 Chester to Ebury Hill (near Shrewsbury)

 77km, 450m climb

Yesterday was cold and grey all day, but today dawned bright and sunny. We packed up quickly and set off from the very pleasant Netherwood campsite before 9.00.

Route NCN 45, The Mercian Way follows small country lanes which are quite undulating, through the Cheshire then Shropshire rural landscapes. We exchanged Welsh sheep for Cheshire dairy cows and grey slates for pink sandstone. 

After our first climb we could see right back over the Dee Estuary and Shotton Steel works. 

We are staying at Ebury Hill campsite which is on the site of an Iron Age fort.

Day 15 Abergele to a few kilometres past Chester

 71km, 150m climb

We left early and were soon back on the coast route cycling into the easterly wind! Thankfully no rain though.

The sea always looks nice, but the resorts become less attractive as one progresses eastwards.

We passed through Rhyl and Prestatyn with their endless lines of static caravans. Then came the Point of Ayr with its lighthouse marking the mouth of the Dee. This area is Talacre, the site of a huge coal mine which extended far out under the sea. It is now closed and the area has been smartened up with a fine new bike path and exhibits of its industrial heritage. 

Power is obviously still important and the enormous Ayr gas works are all too visible, as are miles and miles of wind generators out at sea.

We left the Point of Ayr - our most northerly point - and turned south to follow the Dee to Chester. This is the weak point in the cycle route. They haven't yet managed to create a separate bike path through the industrial towns on the Dee and we had the choice of riding 10km on quite a busy road, or taking a longer route through the hills. We chose the A road which, though busy could have been worse. We batted along and were soon at Flint where we stopped for a picnic lunch in the castle ruins. This is the fourth of Edward first's castles we've passed (Harlech, Caernarfon and Conway) and is his earliest and most ruined.

Point of Ayr lighthouse

Old colliery wheel with modern gas works behind

Flooded underpass!

Flint Castle

Crossing the Dee

Chester

Soon after that we were back on a cycle path on a dyke beside the river for the remaining 10km into Chester. 

After a wander round we carried on along the Shropshire Union Canal for a few km to this campsite. We are now on the Mercian Way, an unlikely cycle route which joins Chester Cathedral to Salisbury Cathedral. We will follow it south for the next couple of days.

Photos slow uploading - more to follow when signal is better. 

Day 14 Llandudno to Abergele

 26km, 100m climb

The rain promised for today thankfully hasn't arrived, but the strong easterly wind certainly has. 

We started off with a sightseeing trip around Llandudno to look at the Great Orme and the pier. 

We then headed east and left Llandudno via a small climb over the Little Orme. When we planned this trip we could have chosen to go either way round our route. The decision to go clockwise was based on the fact that all the literature suggested that the North Coast route should be cycled from west to east as it is very hard work against the prevailing westerly wind. Of course now we are here Sod's wind is blowing strongly from the east! We were glad of our plan to stay in Llandudno and only leave 20km to fight the wind. 

NCN Route 5 is very good. Almost 100% off-road on a good tarmac surface. The coastal views are superb and (apart from the wind) it is very easy and pleasant cycling.

St Trillo's Chapel, Rhos-on-Sea

This little chapel has been built on the site of the cell of St Trillo, a sixth century hermit. It is built on the site of a spring right by the sea.

Looking back along the route near Colwyn Bay.

We're camping at Abergele. It's the first time the tent has been out since we arrived at Belan last Monday, so let's hope that the rain continues to stay away! 

The wind looks friendlier tomorrow and we hope to complete the Welsh section of our journey and get to Chester.

Day 13 Belan to Llandudno

 66km, 400m climb

Days 9 to 12 of our trip were spent relaxing, chatting and very much enjoying catching up with Jean and Christopher, helping with gardening and odd jobs around the Fort (plumbing and carpentry for Ben, hanging curtains and checking over the permanent orienteering course for me). 

We have reluctantly decided to leave a day early because the forecast for Sunday is for a strong easterly wind and rain. Given that our route heads east along the North Wales coast, we felt that riding all day into a strong,  wet wind seemed rather unattractive. Today we have ridden most of that stage and are staying in a hotel in Llandudno. Being Saturday night most hotels and campsites are full.

It's been a lovely ride - up the Menai Strait to Caernarfon and on towards Bangor, then taking to the hills above Bangor to cut across to join the cycle path which runs all the way along the north coast as far as Chester.

Welsh Mountain Railway at Caernarfon. The beautifully restored engine originally came from South Africa - hence the SAR on the tender.

Caernarfon Castle 

Menai Strait

Ford 

Conway Castle and estuary. 

We went along the waterfront at Caernarfon and didn't think of going into the town to buy sandwiches for lunch. Unfortunately we hadn't realised that there would be no more shops or cafés until Penmaenmawr which we reached at 3.30, so lunch was chocolate hobnobs followed by nuts and raisins! 

When we eventually reached the beachside café at Penmaenmawr we found that the plate of cheesy chips with beans was so welcome that it tasted like a cordon bleu meal! We've topped that up now with a takeaway pizza eaten on the seafront at Llandudno.

Day 9 At Fort Belan

 0 km, 0 metres

We will stay here for five days and set off homeward bound by a different and less hilly route on Sunday.

We need a rest and will potter around this gorgeous place socialising, helping with the garden and odd jobs, some gentle walks - oh and eating to gain strength to cycle the 500km home again!

 

I'll restart the blog when we set off on our bikes again on Sunday 20th.

Day 8 Morfa Mawddach to Fort Belan

 74km, 810 climb

Today dawned rather grey and chilly. Quite a contrast from yesterday's sunshine and the star-studded night.

We crossed the old wooden railway bridge into Barmouth.

There was a biting, slightly wet northerly wind blowing as we embarked on the coastal cycle path. We stopped to don more clothing, then again soon afterwards for a warming cup of coffee.

The route carried on a few miles further up the coast bringing back childhood memories from sixty years ago of family caravan holidays at Talybont. Everything has changed ....

We stocked up on a picnic lunch and thankfully left the busy coast road to take to the mountains above Harlech - a stunningly beautiful route.

We descended to Porthmadog and were glad again to leave the crowds and take to the hills. We were on the home straight! The last climb for a few days and a long downhill to Belan.

We've arrived to a very warm welcome!

Belan is very remote, so Jean and Christopher had kindly been out and brought us some food back for the next few days. 

We normally camp here as the accommodation is often let to holidaymakers, but there is spare room at the moment and we are wallowing in the luxury of a large house - the tent is staying firmly in its bag!

Day 7 Llanidloes to Morfa Mawddach

 48km, 650m climb - 

plus train to save 25km and another 550m climb

I had been over ambitious with my route planning through mid Wales for our ages, fitness, and especially the vicious gradients. Today's stage to the next booked campsite just before Barmouth on the south side of the Mawddach estuary would take us up from Llanidloes to the col of Feol Fadian. A long descent to Machynlleth followed. After this would be another major climb of 550m, before descending to Dolgellau.

We were aware of a train service from Machynlleth to Morfa Mawddach a couple of miles from our booked campsite. We were also aware that the constant steep climbs of the last few days had left both of us exhausted, so we decided to take on the first substantial climb, then take the train.

We left the lovely town of Llanidloes and started the climb on the flanks of Plynlimon towards the source of the Severn. It was a glorious sunny day. We passed through the Hafren forest. Apparently there is an ospreys' nest close to the route, but though we kept a good watch out we saw nothing larger than a red kite.

The road was lined with these lovely flowers - please identify if you know what they are!

We struggled on ever upwards, to be rewarded with some splendid views and the eight mile descent into Machynlleth. 

The train was quick and easy, going around the coast rather than over the top as we would have done. We felt reasonably Covid-secure as we stayed in the bike area with no one else around. 

A short ride along the Mawddach Trail brought us to Craig Wen, an eco campsite which was a bit like wild camping with a compost loo and spring water. The views over the estuary were superb. 

No regrets at taking the train - neither of us could have managed the second climb!